Clothes
of Chinese ethnic minorities are flowery and colorful, extremely
exquisite, and highly distinctive. They constitute an important
part of the rich history and culture of the ethnic groups.
A pleated skirt
Every aspect of their garments, such as raw materials, textile
technology, fashion and decoration, retains a distinct characteristic
of the ethnic group and the locality. The Hezhen ethnic minority
people, who mainly make a living on fishing, used to make clothes
with fishskin. The hunting ethnic groups, such as Oroqen and
Ewenki, used roe skin and animal tendon to stitch up their clothes.
The Mongolians, Tibetans, Kazakstans, Khalkhases, Yugurs, etc.,
who are mainly engaged in stockbreeding, make their apparel mostly
from animal skin and hair. And, farming ethnic minorities usually
take the locally produced cotton or hemp thread as raw materials
to spin cloth and silk and make clothes.
Ethnic minorities' spinning and weaving, tanning and felting
techniques boast a long history. For example, bombax cloth of
the Li ethnic minority, woolen fabric of the Tibetan, Adelis
silk of the Uygur, fur products of the Oroqen have enjoyed a
worldwide reputation all along.
There are numerous clothing designs and forms in Chinese ethnic
minorities. Generally speaking, they can be classified into two
types: long gowns and short clothes. People usually wear a hat
and boots to match long gowns, and headcloth and shoes to match
short clothes. The gowns take various forms: the high-collar
and big-front type worn by the Mongolian, the Manchu, the Tu
and so on; the collarless tilted-front type worn by the Tibetan,
the Moinba and so on; the tilted-front type worn by the Uygur
and other ethnic minorities; and so on. As for short clothes,
they fall into two types: trousers and skirts.
In terms of fashion of skirts, there are pleated skirts, tube
skirts, short skirts, one-piece dress and so on. In any kind
of clothes, no matter it is the gown, the coat, the skirt, or
the trousers, different ethnic minority groups employ different
structures, techniques and styles. Take high-collared big gowns
for example. Some of them have kick pleat, some don't have any
kick pleat, some have kick pleat both in front and on the back,
and some have front and back kick pleat and edging all around.
Women of the Li, the Dai, the Jingpo, the De'ang ethnic minorities
and so on all wear tube skirts, but those tube skirts worn by
the Li are brocade skirts made of cotton, those worn by the Jingpo
are woolen multicolored skirts, those worn by the De'ang are
skirts with horizontal stripes, and those worn by the Dai are
usually skirts made of common cloth.
Costumes of ethnic minorities vary greatly not only with different
nationalities, but also with different branches and different
regions within the same ethnic group. Difference can be seen
from province to province, from county to county, and even from
village to village. Costume is the most obvious symbol of an
ethnic group, and in the history, many ethnic groups were named
just according to their garments.
In a vast country like China, with so many ethnic groups and
an unbalanced social development, styles of clothes vary a lot
due to different economic lives, cultural levels, natural environments
and geographical conditions and climatic conditions. This is
one of the characteristics of folk garments.
Some techniques of Chinese ethnic minorities such as embroidery
and batik are much developed, and are widely used in making clothing
adornments. This is another feature of their costumes.
Embroidery is a technique generally favored by all ethnic groups,
and it is usually used in the headband, the waistband, the apron,
and some rapid-wearing parts such as the border of the front,
the round shoulder, the lower hem, the wristband, the bottom
of trouser legs, the edge of the skirt, etc., being both decorative
and practical. Embroidery techniques include cross-stitch work,
applique, embroidering and so on; methods include surface, twine,
chain, net, stab and stack embroidery, etc; patterns include
natural scenes, auspicious patterns and geometric patterns and
so on.
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